I was always wondering the same is it possible to visit Mallorca without a car? Well, listening stories seemed that no, but when that is the only option you have, you try your best, and it is very much possible, doable, and cheap. Okay depends on the number of days you have and the amount of things you want to see, but Ii think we did a decent job, especially having in mind that this was a “workation from Mallorca” rather than a vacation. Our itinerary looked like this:
DAY 1 – PALMA
We arrived around midnight so the 0 day is not counted, and immediately took the night bus to our hotel. A1 was the one that suited us, and it took around 30 minutes to our destination in the old town. Our hotel of choice was Hotel Brondo, super smooth check in, and shower, and the next day we took it early in order to see the city without crowds, but also because we had to start working around 9. Empty city, morning light, thousands of tiny streets. We spotted the most important touristic sights, had a walk along the harbor, then it was breakfast time, or should I say ensaimada time at Ca’n Joan de s’Aigo, the oldest cafe in Palma, we tried their sweet pies with savory fill, and of course zumo de naranja. The second part of the working day was from Mistral Coffee House on Place de Welyer, and when the working day was officially over, the party started at the next door Vermuteria La Rosa. Tapas style, cute interior, but we decided that we are done with “croquetas” after this. And then the road (the bus) lead us to Cala d’Or. It requires one change but overall in less than 90 minutes you are reaching it, and what I like the most is that all of the buses were unified in colors, and every bus ride was paid by card, ah also, the more people are riding the cheaper it gets. Trip for two was 10.35euros.
DAY 2 – 4 CALA D’OR – CALA ESMERALDA – CALA PETITa
Our accomodation was very basic, very central, and very close to the beach, or to the “cala”. The pedestrian area is your typical vacation place, full of beach stuff and souvenir stores, and places with loud music and average food, so nothing to be woowed, but the nature area, or the bays were amazing. Cala d’Or or the golden bay, was actually built following the vibe of the sister island Ibiza. All white everything, the water was emerald blue/green and in the period in middle of June it was never too crowded. We visited few of the bays, but like Cala Esmeralda and Cala Petita the most.
The walk along the marina was something we preferred more, so in the nights we took that route. And we kind of got the impression, that the restaurants were better on that side.
When in Cala d’Or you can also reach the National Park Cala Mondrago, but we decided to take it easy. Lunch and dinner menu consisted of orange juice, gazpacho, tapas and fish, in a repetitive mode.
day 5 – Valldemossa
The half way there, trip was Valldemossa. There is an option to reach Soller directly from Palma in 30 minutes, but we decided to save 50 minutes and make a trip in Valldemossa. Totally charming, clean, extreme windy, but super lovely. It would have been better if it was not 1500 degrees. The main problem, backpacks, the tourist information was not working, so we were left on the mercy on the local cafes. And we bless the life and family of the guy in a local cafe, after being rejected by two ladies first. Valldemossa is small, but beauty is in every corner. The touristic staff is based in the two central streets, but once you start going a bit further you are basically alone. When here, must try is the almond cake, super simple, but super tasty, and milk with local almonds. We also sneaked a “little hike” as influencers like to say, for the best photo of Valldemossa, don’t do it if the temperature is above 20 degrees. Our trip in Valldemossa ended with lunch in the “workshop” or Es Taller restaurant. Small menu, such a great taste for the interior, and we were so lucky because we came in the right time and got a table.
day 6 – DEIa – Port de soller
After full working day the plan was trip to Deia, having in mind the road to get there, we were thinking twice if we should go for it, and decided to do it. Deia is even smaller than Valldemossa, it has one and a half street, many restaurants on the main road, and classy stores for clothes and interior, cafes with vegan and slow food, and even though most of the places were closed because it was Monday (in Mallorca many of the places do not work on Mondays and Tuesdays) I got this feeling that Deia is the Ubud of Mallorca, since I’ve read that there are many pottery houses and the ultra slow way of living. We ended our tour with tapas in one of the open places, and then with a walk in La Residencia in Belmond Hotel. The views were so worth it.
The amusement from Port de Soller was not as high as with the other places so far, it felt. super touristy, the water was not with a diamond blue color as in the calas on the other side of the island. Random walking we witnessed a sunset, a proposal, and stylish people coming out of their villas. The place was not “something” but that lifestyle totally was. Our night ended in Donkey Bar in the Neni Hotel, and my opinion on the cocktails was, kids, don’t go here for it.
The last bus from Port de Soller to Soller was around 23:00 and in 5 minutes we were in our home.
day 7 – Soller
Even more work than the day before is it possible, oh yes totally is. We had big, fat sourdough breakfast at Barri de Forn, expectations on super high, experience average, liked Horno de Santo Christo across the street more. Guilty for appreciating chain over one person show, but that was my experience. After work we realized that we didn’t have vermouth in Mallorca, yet so one on the square accompanied with bread and aioli, because, the proper restaurants are in the mood of “garden tables are only for people that have a meal” , but luckily we didn’t go in a random one, and we ended up at Luna 36. Danish-Argentinian owners, but Spanish food. Everything for highest grade, except the ice cream dessert, but that was my bad to order it, everything else, please book and see for yourself.
day 8 – Palma + airport
The trip ended as it started with tomato bread and orange juice, it doesn’t go but it really goes. This time we took the fast route to Palma, and in 30 minutes and 2 euros we were there. We repeat some of the spots from day one, Mistral for coffee, but this time the roastery, not the house, went to Olivaer Market, there was a nice indoor sitting (cold) area, came back to La Rosa, for the Spanish tortilla, that I was thinking about since day one, which ended up with vermouth feast and then we walked some more, entering all the shops that looked interesting to us. The trip to the airport as simple as on the way there, this was the only bus where they asked us to pay cash, and the trip finished with more vermouth at the La Rosa airport. Oh wow I skipped the Celler de sa Premsa, one of the oldest, if not the oldest restaurants in Palma, with typical food and 3 course menu for 16 euros, basically you can try everything there.
I am glad that this unplanned trip happened, that on moments it left me speechless and that since day one I had the feeling that I must come back. I definitively underestimated the island, having in mind all of the not so great stories you hear about it and the tourists. And best thing of all it is totally doable and (economically) by bus.