In 2019 when spontaneous trips and half-way meetings with friends were still possible, we decided for Copenhagen. The reason was the good flight connection, but the real reason was “kardemommesnurrer” – pardon my Danish.
Sixty sky minutes and some twentyish train minutes later we arrived at the Copenhagen Central Station, and just 3 minutes on foot we reached the hotel, and most importantly our friends.
Hotel: Urban House Copenhagen by MEININGER
Transport Station: Copenhagen Central Station
Walking minutes from station: 3
Recommendation: 😊 Very Central, with nice lobby
Breakfast included: NO
Price: $$$$$
Payment: Card (50 EUR p.p./night)
Planning a “good month weather” trip to Scandinavia equals gambling. You never know. It was end of May, and luckily we were well equipped. Rain boots ON. But with that amount of bakeries, and such great friends around, we’ll leave the weather in the shadow.
First rule in Scandinavia, you cant really relay on spontaneousness. Working hours are limited, compared to what we are usually used to in Berlin and Macedonia (everything almost always open). That is why our first stop was in the Østerbro area, for breakfast at Juno the Bakery. Being closed in the next two days (Mondays & Tuesdays) it was our only possibility to go there. We spent full hour in front of it, going three times in and coming out with more and more things. All of them with a mind-blowing review.
The weather was requiring an indoor spot, so second on our agenda was Torvehallerne Food Market, which called for coffee time at Coffee Collective and Smørrebrød – pardon my Danish again. The market is full of food stalls with raw and prepared food, fresh produce in the outside area, and everything from food you can think of.
I know a song that says east side to the west side, our path was now to the North part of the city Nørrebro, right in the opening time of Mikkeller Beer bar, and the first cider of the day. Some beers were included as well. Then strolling through the city center, the day continues with the most famous hotdog in the city Døp, lots of varieties, vegan options and classic toppings. The price of course starting from 30 DKK.
The stroll continues towards Nyhavn or the colourful houses area, where I couldn’t help but enter every restaurant backyard and admire how they have nicely arranged it. Tiny allies, and more colorful streets on a very gloomy weather called for a beer pub. The night was for Mikkeler that was next to our hotel. Pretty eventful.
The first day was a lot of zigzaging around the city, my favorite explorative path. On the second day we were a bit more organized. Having bread aficionados and a food stylist in the crew, meant only one, there is going to be bread and snurre for every meal of the days.
Day two started with Andreas & Maillard bakery, their amazing choco espresso rolls. Continues in Mayers Bageri, and the most stunning street in Copenhagen, Jaegersborggade. I’ll just say, bakeries, cafes, concept stores and colors. One round around the area brought us to Superkilen park. Diversity and posers heaven. If you are traveling with kids, they will be thankful. Around this area there are also some interesting coffee shops, I mean no need to mention, as everywhere around.
Public transport alert, we took a bus from Nørrebro to Christiania Free town, and what I admired the most were the houses in which people decide to live, I guess I can never be that free. There is a rule, the citizens must agree if they will accept you to live here, and you cant take anything with you when you decide to leave. Smart and sustainable. This area was also where the iconic Christiania Bikes were born. It started as a birthday present 35 years ago, and now it is symbol of the country. Due the fact that the bike has remained unchanged for more than 25 years it has the Danish Design Award.
Our last stop in the area was Refshaleøen, a Street food island. Place where ships were produced in the past, and now home on one of the biggest street food markets in Europe. We didn’t see it in full bloom due to Monday hours and wind conditions. However, we had a great time. We enjoyed tacos and burgers.
In Macedonia we have a saying that you should walk as long as your legs can hold you, we were doing beyond that. The late afternoon was spent in Taphouse, and few pictures were snapped in front of the City Hall. No rings were exchanged, everyone kept the same martial status. Good.
Did you know that Copenhagen is the easiest place to get married in Europe. You need less than a week to do that. Only Gibraltar can beat this speed (there you can get married in 24 hours), but it is far less accessible.
Monday was not providing us with a lot of night time options. The places we wanted to go were either closed or empty. We set the rule no Mikkeller and no random over touristy Irish pub. I would say Mikkeller would have been a better option, but how else would we have seen boys and girls playing the needle game. Anyways we are morning people.
As morning people we did get the worm. The worm was brunch spot in Cafe September. Rustic place with modern interior and flowers everywhere around. The offer was the typical brunch menu PEAS, pancakes, eggs, avocado, salmon. Our daily dose of steps was around the interior stores on the main square and in the Købmagergade strreet, another very nice street, but more consumer oriented.
Our farewell happened in Democratic Cafe accompanied by the tastiest almond croissant. Every cafe that we went to was my favorite, but this was the most of all. It is within a library. There were students studying. People were browsing around. It brought me back to my student exchange time in Finland. There, spending time in the library was more of a pleasure than an obligation.
As you might have noticed, not massive sight seeing was done, not even 10% of what we have placed on our map was visited. This city definitively calls for more.
Weekend in Copenhagen in January – Revisit
Well since the city called us, we had to respond. We did another visit to Copenhagen in winter and it was better than expected. Two best friends and endless pastry possibilities. Our itinerary in Copenhagen was all about food. We gave our trust to the same hotel. Once we checked in we were on our way to Juno Bakery. The quality of this bakery is on another level. Their variety too. The lemon bun left us speechless. We were lucky enough to be there in the semla season. And the usual Bolle med Ost – cheese bun is never a miss in Denmark, and especially here.
Our first coffee stop of the day was Coffee collective in the beautiful Bernikow Garllery. Then we strolled a lot. Thinking when is the best time for Atelier September. But we thought we need something more casual and our choice was a Cider Bar (unfortunately closed). The evening/ night time was totally out of our drinking zone, and we went in the Meatpacking district. One of the best spots in my humble opinion. Our choice was Warpigs and we enjoyed the beers and the delicacies there.
The morning after started at Hart Bageri. WE were only trying cardamom buns. Then we repeated a spot from 2019, Andersen & Maillard. This place is just amazing. People of all ages, coffee being roasted on the spot, chill atmosphere. And then tiny moment of unintentionality there we are again at Juno. Today we came for the Banana bun. oh my oh my. The expectations were below sea level, but who are we fooling, this is Juno. One of the most memorable pastries to date. After some more strolling and concept store shopping, we found ourselves to one of the most interesting neighbourhoods in town – Kartoffelrækkerne. These are 11 parallel tiny streets that have houses glued one next to the other since 1865. Frozen as we were, we entered the SMAK museum for modern art. In our sense modern art was the bistro in it, which deserves more than 5 stars. And then passing through the Rosenborg Castle we are again in the central area resting at HAY House.
Cold nights and hot soups go hand in hand and as the night was falling you could find us at Ramen to Bíiru Vesterbro. Another Mikkeler spot.
On Morning number three we are revisiting an old favourite – Democratic Coffee. Then after wondering where all the people are, we are trying to get a glimpse of local life around Delfingade, the area where many eateries have their addresses. Like Apotek 57, Atelier September to name a few. And then totally unplanned there we are at another touristy spot – Kastellet Fortress. Fun fact, we again didn’t see the little mermaid, even after 3 visits. But suddenly we were just in time for the change of guards ceremony at the Amalienborg.
And then the hunger times arrived. We’ve crossed some bridges to reach POPL, the burger concept of Rene Redzepi, kind of closest to NOMA we have been. It was good but we’ve had better burgers in our life, even though the fries and the sauces were amazing. And after crossing even more rotating bridges, we reached Andersen Bakery and their is the line worth waiting for pastries? Well they were just okay after the mentioned JUNO delights.
On the dinner menu we had falafel at Garbanzo.
Sadly we could not end the night in a bar since there was some payment outrage and only cash was accepted, which we didn’t feel like exchanging on a Sunday night.
Nevertheless, we had one last chin chin with an IPA at the airport around 6 AM.
Great thing that the flight from Copenhagen to Berlin is only 50 minutes. Bad thing that the Berlin construction never cease to amaze, and often you need more than 50 minutes to reach the city.
I do not know what I am waiting for for my next revisit of the city. Among else the open baths and the Lile Bageri can’t wait to have me.
CONCRETE COLLAGE 