Trippin: Weekend of hiking in Schwarzwald and Alsace

This year we decided to explore Germany more, and do more train trips. One of the first obvious destination choices was the Black Forest. We used the last long weekend in May to visit this region. We were wondering which part of Schwarzwald we should go to, since the region is big. You can’t go everywhere in just one weekend. Luckily, their tourism website has great explanation, and maps of regions, things to do, hikes, and you can choose according your preferences.
We were on two minds, between the Titisee area and the paths around the Offenburg area. We’ve decided for the later one.

Started from Berlin with the night train. First mistake, we didn’t book sleeping cabins, and maybe we should have, as the train was delayed more than 3 hours. We are not that young at heart as we used to be. Some of us appreciate the comfort too. Just a seat was 35 euros, and night cabin was ca. 90 euros. Having in mind the delay, and that we were compensated 50% of the ticket, we were thinking – wooow, sleeping cabins for half the price would have been real deal.
Also when booking sleeping trains you would need to go on the nightjet.com website and not directly through the train service provider.

We arrived in Freiburg to meet old friends. Technically we could have gone out at Offenburg, but meeting friends beats any other convenience. My first and last time in the beautiful city was in 2015, and it was my first encounter with the German farmers markets. To date that is one of my favorite things about Germany. We went on that market right behind the main train station in Stuhlinger Platz, with a view of the Herz Jesu church. It was hot, blue skied and amazing day.
Cakes and breakfast (with vegetarian options) we had at Café Huber and it had this cozy, old German cafe feeling.
Our friend took us on the other side of the park at JC Café, that one was with a very local vibe too.

Then we started our tour towards Durbach, and once we arrived we started hiking the Gebirger Höfe Weg. It was nice and scenic but what was even more interesting were the small “gas stations” where you could buy liquors, snacks, homemade drinks. There were not restaurants on this route, but there were some nice accommodations here like Hotel Holzberg in the middle in the forest with a pool, and great views on the Black Forest. As we were approaching towards the end, it started raining cats and dogs, and saw people hiking with an umbrella for the first time. A lovely place where we hid a bit from the rain was Hermannswald house, actually farmers yard but also shop for cozy deco things. We ended the route soaking wet, and decided to book dinner in the hotel we were staying in Kehl.

The Romantik Hotel Rebstock in Kehl was the only highlight for me in the city. Every room was unique, the whole restaurant and reception setup was amazing in the style of 25hours hotels around Europe, and their breakfast buffet as well. Can’t recommend this hotel enough, the value for money was on high level too.

The next day the forecast was not promising, and we were doubting if we should go to Strassbourg or take our second hike. Luckily we decided for the hike, and the weather collaborated, serving us blue sky and great temperature, so we ended up liking this route along the vineyards (Durbacher Wein Panorama) and Schloss Staufenberg and it turned out amazing. As stated on the website, this is premium and gourmet hiking trail, and I really fell in love with the choices at the castle.
We wanted to end the hike with aperitivo at the Rebstock Hotel in Durbach, but unfortunately they were closing their garden at 6 PM, otherwise this hotel looked amazing, and I would choose it for my next stay when I am here in the region.
It had beautiful garden, spa options, pool and restaurant, and their own cherry tree.
The day was finished with dinner at a Greek restaurant, and cocktails in the restaurant lobby. The second one being far more enjoyable.

On our last day we decided to spent some time in Strassbourg. There is a direct tram between the cities of Kehl and Strassbourg, the ticket costs 1.9 per person and in 20 minutes you reach the center of one of the nicest cities in France. Due the fact that it was public holiday, everything except the touristic cafes and shops was closed, so we strolled a bit, had lunch in a bit less central restaurant La Marseillaise, bought some pastries from a bakery and we were back on the way to Kehl.

From Kehl to the Euroairport of Basel-Mullhouse-Freiboug you need around 90 minutes, for outside EU flights it tends to get a bit chaotic, but in the end they are calling out the priority flights. Even if you are on time chances are you can have issues. This was not the case with us but with other outside EU flights.

Anyways I can’t recommend enough visiting Schwarzwald. If you have more days it would be even better as there are great trails and spots to experience, and make sure you book a spot on a sleeping cabin train.

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