When is the best time to visit South America? Which countries are okay to visit in South America in April and May? I was asking my browser endless times. And then when the results hit, I was doubting I should have Colombia as my first South American country, having in mind the fearful person that I am. Then the story changed and after so many reads the flight tickets were bought. Nothing much was done after that up until one week away from the start of the travels. To Santiago and from Lima. I had 700 rough plans but never a concrete one. Until 3 days ago before starting, but only for the first leg of our trip.

DAY 1 – SANTIAGO, CHILE

Arriving at Santiago at 8 AM sounded scary, but as soon as we dropped our bags, it felt easy. We chose the accommodation in the Providencia area, because safety first. The metro system is pretty easy to follow. When you are not on a central location, it comes handy to have accommodation just in front of your door.
Before going to Santiago I read a lot of stories concerning safety, especially in the historical part. We were there on Big Friday, so the city was almost empty. downside was that we could not experience the vibe, but on positive note we were walking freely.
Our agenda for the day was the following: the Gabriela Mistral cultural center, then stroll through Lastaria, and lunch at Liguria restaurant. We continued towards the park Cerro Santa Lucia and then took the downtown route. Started with the National Library, the San Francisco convent, together with the Londres street. Later we moved towards the Moneda Palace – The Government building, and the main square Plaza de Armas together with the Cathedral. We finished the visit of this part of the city by visiting the Central Market, which by surprise was home of three famous eateries. There were no groceries inside, rather just around it.
The second part of the day was for Barrio Bella Vista. We crossed of some of the notable street, but only Pio Nonno and Constitucion were bustling in the afternoon. The visit of this part of the city ended with Pablo Neruda’s house La Chascona.
The finale of the day started with a 30 minutes hike towards the Metropoliten park of Santiago, and the viewpoint of San Cristobal. The first unavoidable stop was for “mote” and then we were soaking the view. Especially breathtaking were the sunshine rays on the mountains. As typical tourists, but also because it was getting dark already at 6PM we managed to get the last tickets for the cable car and get back to our accommodation area.
We ended the night with the youngsters of Santiago drinking michelada at the King of Micheladas. So fancy.

DAY 2 – VALPARAISO

I was indecisive. should we go to Valparaiso or should we visit Barrio Italia and some eateries on my list. In the end we decided for Valparaiso, but from this perspective maybe we were supposed to stay in Santiago. Took the metro to Pajeros station and bought a ticket for the first bus. Buying online via Flixbus is the most cost effective way, but we saved that for our way back. The ride was around 90 minutes, and on every stop people would enter the bus selling sweets and snacks. Arriving in Valparaiso, we chose to walk a long street, and the whole non touristy part of the city seemed like one big open market. The best part of the walk, “empanadas famosas”, very local place. And then the usuals in Valparaiso started: Cerro Alegre, Paseo Yugoslavo, Cerro Concepcion. As well lots of street art, even more souvenir sellers, and a lots of poo on the streets. After the hilly stroll we thought of visiting Vina de Mar. We took the train and shockingly there was armed security in every car. Vina de mar didn’t felt so exciting. It was also kind of touristy, I guess it is big on cruise ships. But the night part was good. We had a restaurant reservation in a very nice venue. Not the restaurant itself but the Mercado Urbano Tobalaba it was amazing and it felt totally different from everything we saw in Chile. It is not that I am all in about new style places, but I am excited to see how the atmosphere differentiates in parts of the city.

DAY 3 -7 – ATACAMA DESERT

We took LATAM flight to Calama Airport and rented a car at Chilerent. Our four days at Atacama desert could start. first point the seat space in the plane, beats extended seats in average European company, Then the views. There is nothing, yet there is so much on the road. San Pedro de Atacama is touristy but such a cute place. Unpaved roads, many restaurants tour agencies and souvenir shop here and there. Our time here was very well used. You can choose to make tours with an agency, but 2 people in a car is already cheaper.

On the first day we went to Valle de la Luna, the Moonvalley. From all the points of interest the Duna Mayor was my favorite. The second day was for Rainbow Valley (Valle de Arcoiris), and the hidden lagoons of Baltinache. The lagoons are not really hidden, there is a sign, but they definitively are off road. On day three, which maybe was my favorite day we visited the Red Stones (Piedras Rojas), and the lagoons of Miscanti and Miniques. The views are amazing but the road to both destinations even better. We even managed to visit the National Flamingo Reserve which included as well visit to the Yerba Oasis. The flamingo reserve was a bit underwhelming. Later we found out that better time to go in the reserve is in the morning. On our last planned day we woke up at 4AM and started our journey to the El Tatio Geysers. The Geysers are most active in the morning. There was snow from the previous day, so the animals were hidden. Even though it is written possible card payment, here it was not.. The next day we were supposed to be on our way to Uyuni, but due to the snow and a stuck truck on the road this was not possible, so we had chilled day in San Pedro Atacama. No activities, no plans, just coffee, new accommodation, luckily with great patio and sunshine.

DAY 8 – 9 – SALAR DE UYUNI

Finally we were happy to be on the road to Uyuni. After canceled day, it was very hard to convince the agency that we want the 3 day tour squeezed in two days. We’ve made it for the same price. no money back, but luckily we were again on schedule. We excluded the usual second day on the trip, the rock days. All the lakes (lagunas) were breathtaking, Laguna Colorada especially. On this day we visited four spots the White and Green Lagoon, the thermal springs and the Colorada Laguna. What we skipped from the plan were the geysers. The second day was fully reserved for the Salt Fields in Uyuni both on sunrise and sunset. It was amazing both morning and evening. Some couple had a wedding it was truly magical. In this period of the year, end of April the positive is that you get to witness the mirror effect. On the other hand the Isla Incahuasi was closed. So far the day was the highlight of the trip. After seeing the “biggest mirror in the world”, you forget that the car is not that comfortable or that the food was not that tasty. Other good thing is that once you pay, you do not have any other expenses in the tour days.

DAY 10 – 12 – LA PAZ, BOLIVIA

After two amazing days in the Bolivian desert, we were ready to go back to civilization. Which meant 10 hour night bus from Uyuni to La Paz. We arrived in La Paz on a Sunday, which meant many closed things, less crowds and more time to explore everything. We started the tour from the Sopocachi area, very close to the Isabel la Catolica square towards Plaza Sucre and the San Pedro Jail. From here we entered the downtown area and strolled first through Rodriguez Mercado. We saw many unfamiliar fruits and veggies and bought some to try. Entering via the Sagarnaga street, we reached the most touristy spots the Witches Market and Linares street. Here you can see all the visitors, booking tours or buying clothes. The Lanza Mercado was closed so we continued towards the Museum street in colonial style, Calle Jaen. This area was pretty calm compared to everything we saw before in downtown. The road lead us to Plaza Murillo, one of the nicest squares in the city, surrounded by all the important governmental buildings. Another place where you can see all the people who came to La Paz was HB Bronze Bar, coffee and brunch spot. Then we took the cable car to El Alto to visit the market, but it was not really our cup of tea. We decided to skip the cholas wrestling as well. But the views from the cable car were amazing, and I am still wondering how brave these people are to build their houses “hanging” on the edge. The next day I was exploring the culinary scene of La Paz which was really refreshing. Fell in love with Popular – Cocina Boliviana. My companion went to climb Huayna Potosi summit, and I had vacation like day.
On our last day in La Paz instead of recovery we went to see the Bolivian Moon valley. Afterwards to the richer and lower part of the city Calacoto. And it was like visit to another city.
La Paz has altitude difference of 3200 to 4000 meters above the sea level, and there is around 5-6 degrees difference from one to the other part of town.

DAY 13 – COPACABANA

As first of May was approaching we didn’t want to be on this date in a big city,so we decided to continue our journey. As easiest option seemed the Bolivia Hop bus. Starting 6AM they pick you up in front of your accommodation. Then, they make a four hour stop in Copacabana, on the Titicaca lake, and then continue towards your destination in Peru. The destinations in Peru can be Puno, Arequipa and Cusco. This was pretty chill day, and crossing the border between Bolivia and Peru was very smooth experience. You have the option to take a trip towards the floating island Isla de Sol, but we decided to skip this, and went to visit another institution instead. There are two hotels one Sultans the other one Las Olas with a nice cafe called El Condor, and they were real architectural gem in the town full of unfinished houses. Otherwise Copacabana didn’t leave a special mark in my memory. After dinner in Puno we continued our overnight journey towards Cusco.

DAY 14 – 20 – CUSCO AREA & MACHU PICCHU

We arrived in Cusco around 6AM. Waited at our hotel lobby until 7, for anything to open. Had a breakfast, and started exploring the city. Even though the traffic was not heavy, it was already loud, as every taxi car is signaling that they are available. We visited every point in the historical center. Went on a quest to find a tour operator that would take us on Salkantay Trekking. Especially interesting were the markets, and seeing their soup eating rituals, glimpses of local life, and all the cool things one can find on a market. My personal gem in the city was the Florencia y Fortunata coffee shop. Also fell in love with their alfajor cookies.

Since we had a gap day, we went on a day trip to Vinicunca, Rainbow Mountain and then hiked through the Red Valley. It was a perfect day. The next 4 days we hiked the Salkantay Trek. Visited Humantay Lake, the Salkantay pass, coffee shop farm, thermal springs and ended trekking along the rails, until we reached Aguas Callientes.

As we didn’t have tickets to Machu Picchu, we had to stay additional day in Aguas Callientes. Wait in line since 4AM, we were number 110, so we could choose the circuit that we want. May is already a season when you can’t take ticket for the same day. The day after we went at 7AM to Machu Picchu. I was afraid it will be over-hyped but it was perfect. The guide was also taking us through the story in interesting way so it was a win win. Then we set off to Inca Rail to Ollaytantambo with connecting bus to Cusco and a flight to Lima.

DAY 21-24 – LIMA, PERU

Lima felt like a vacation. Not that we had planned the trip to the minute, but we had rough picture of how it would be. Changing altitudes added to the challenging part. Lima was no plan, except for some restaurant reservations. We stayed in the Miraflores area and spent the first two days there. Incorporated San Isidro, which really reminded of Japan. We strolled through Kennedy Park, the notable streets and the one full of restaurants. In the sunset hour to Malecon and then to the open air Larcomar mall. Finished the night in a cocktail institution – Lady Bee.

On the second day took the opposite direction of Larcomar, towards Mayta for lunch. Everything was on point and the a la card portions were huge for a fine dining place. I the night we went to Mercado 28, but somehow we preferred the open street. Second time in Lima we decided on the sandwich place La Lucha.

Day three was for Barranco. I love walking in cities. Even though it took as almost an hour the views of city life didn’t disappoint, and neither did Barranco. Considered the bohemian quarter, it is home of art market – Dedalo. specialty chocolate and coffee place – Cicalo, and home to most of the high end restaurants in Lima. We had our reservation for Merito. And pretty please what was this? I was amazed by the flavors, we even repeat some dishes. Just wow. After souvenir shopping which equaled to 2kg of chocolates, we were on to our next quest – Nikkei cuisine. Mix of Japanese and Peruvian flavors or better said Japanese dishes, with Peruvian ingredients. This was also out of this world dinner.

We saved the historical part for our last day. Took an Uber to San Martin square. Started strolling, admired the main buildings on the Plaza de Armas, the Francisco Cathedral and the Santo Domingo convent. Had Pisco Sour and butifara sandwich at the institution Cordano bar, and managed to even visit the china town. We were lucky to witness the change of guards as well. Sadly, two blocks away from the main square everything different. Dirty, unsafe and neglected. But I choose to remember Lima for its flavors and for the sea views – no matter that is not the full picture.

Our time in South America or in the Central Andes region was sacred. It was our first time on the continent, firs time in these altitudes, first time risking of going somewhere actually complicated, without a concrete plan. And without a ticket to Machu Picchu. We learned a lot about our strength and endurance, about nature and saw some of the most beautiful sights. And main lesson is: everything is very doable. Would love to see the Salar maybe one more time in my life and see more of Peru.