ITINERARY: Scottish Highlands & Isle of Skye by camper

All the trips remembered, are the best trips, but this was out of any category the best, and it still warms my heart every time I think of it, and I think about it a lot. Together with our African safari trip, they tend to hold the highest place on my top vacations chart, and I always thought that I am a city person. Well, the campers vans and tents proved me wrong.
You were definitively looking for a sign to visit Scotland by a camper and you should definitively do it, the only bad thing about it, no matter the amount of days you are going to book, it will never be enough.

When thinking about Scotland, the first association is moody weather, gray skies, and wind jackets, well our first stop was the supermarket where we’ve bought shorts, slippers and co. And as the radio was saying three days in a row: “hottest day in the UK”, we knew we were not having the typical Scottish vacation. To be honest I was thinking that we are missing out, until the last day when a little drizzle appeared and then, the thankfulness for the past days increased even more. I know we would have be just fine with light showers as well, but I am sure we will be back for them.

After spending gorgeous weekend in Edinburgh, we took the train to Glasgow, where our pickup point was. We had around one hour to see bits and pieces of the city, and that is really the only thing, so apart from a steak place, which was great, and hilly up and down streets. I don’t have anything else to add. I hope to devote more to this city in near future.

And so it begins. We rented our camper van via Staycation Scotland, a group of girls are owning the place and they have made a little glamping heaven out of a regular VW Transporter Van. One that includes everything and even special touches. Super happy with our choice.
We had an approximate itinerary of what we want to see, but knowing the overachievers we are when it comes to visiting spots, the first night was a little bit tough I must admit.

Started by admiring the beauty of Lake Lomond and having our picnic there, the bravest were having a swim, some people were riding their SUP board and we were just relaxing. The second stop was at the Falls of Falloch, included 10minute hike and 3 minutes of admiring the falls, but also the bravest family jumping in for a swim at almost dusk.
We didn’t know where we want to stop for sleeping but the initial plan was somewhere around Glencoe. Arriving at around 7PM, everything was closed, and every accommodation had a sign “No Vacancy”. But we got to enjoy the nicest sunset all by ourselves. Not to forget on the way here there were many “wild” camping spots, but we were sure we were going to find a closer one. And even more important, when you are doing this route, try to stop and stay in the Glencoe area, and especially somewhere with a view on Beinn Dorain, one of the nicest mountains according my eyes.
Well our plan failed, it was getting dark and the smartest and safest option was spending the night at Ben Nevis camp.

The price per night was 34 GBP, and I think it was very worthy, peace of mind, hot shower, warm chowder and our first night in our road home. Plus one lesson: If that stop looks nice, don’t waste it, you don’t know when the next one is coming.
Even though it was the hottest day in the UK, the night was chilly, and the morning foggy, so we didn’t want to start our adventure very early.
The adventure being hiking the highest summit in the UK, Ben Nevis. I underestimated it and I regret for doing it. Even though I’ve climbed many this was different kind of challenging, first very stoney, then extremely hot temperature, and the fact that i needed water more then ever. Definitively encouraging you to do it, maybe not on the hottest day of your trip.

Straight from the shower we were on our way to the Glenfinnan Viaduct to see the Jacobite Steam train or the “Harry Potter train” as known among people. The steam train is making four round trips per day, and in case you want to see it from the visitors center, you just need to pay for the parking, there is no entrance fee. Before coming make sure to check the timetable here, and plan your trip.
I am not even Harry Potter fan, but it was so exciting to witness this view, plus with the fact that in the afternoon there were only six of us there at the spot.

Learning from your own mistakes is the best, and that is why we finished the night earler then yesterday on a parking spot along other campers with the view on Lake Lochy and it was so cozy and amazing.
Deep down I wanted to have a stroll in Fort William and have a coffee in one of the pre-noted coffee shops, but I think that this view and the easiness of slow travel are not to be traded with.

What really saves you in Scotland, are the village community halls. They have very clean toilets, if you come after 9AM there is even kitchen, where local volunteers are preparing traditional snacks, and it is all that you need to start the morning fresh. We are very thankful for the Glengarry Community Hall, and every time we saw a centre like this we supported it.
Then my cozy coffee cravings were almost satisfied at the Rokeby Manor, the only place that was open before 9AM, they are also offering breakfast, but we already had from our “warehouse”.

The next on our itinerary was the Eilean Donan Castle. True gem, and the most visited place that we saw on the trip so far. It is kind of the gate to Isle of Skye. Parking was 3GBP I think and in the visitors centre you can browse souvenirs, eat, and regarding the visit of the castle itself you have an option of full pack or only the outside area. Even watching the castle from a distance was impressive. And since we did a bit of shopping there we decided to skip the visit and just had our coffee admiring this beauty.
In this area there are a lot of “wee” places, I didn’t know that this was typical Scottish word meaning little, and by wee places I mean kisoks, cafeterias and eateries, but they had very specific opening hours, make sure to double check before planning.

And then I fell in love with Isle of Skye. Our first stop was Skye’s candle shop, and then the 57degrees distillery in the town of Broadford. In the distillery you can buy their gin or a small bottle of the best Scottish whiskeys, definitively worth the visit. Here we wanted to eat at the The Shellfish Shack, but he was sold out for the week, and this tells a lot about freshness and quality of the food being sold here, so then we went to the tiny market place here just next to the CO-OP super market and had a burger.
The views driving towards Portree, the capital of Skye were amazing, just pure greenness and waterfalls and lakes. Once we arrived there the typical public toilet cleanness amazement, stroll through the town is doable in about 15 minutes both up and down. Our settlement there was in Birch Cafe, make sure it is yours too, some postcards bought from OR, here you can find a lot more than this, and that was pretty much it.

Our idea was to continue towards the Old Man of Storr, but once we arrived there and saw the crowds, we became hesitant, and when we read that it is yet another hike of about 75 minutes to be done, it was a no. Instead, we opted for the Rigg view point, and apart from 2 more camper vans we were alone. Great views and if you ask me great spot to spend the night, but we didn’t do that. Instead we wanted to try our luck in a restaurant, but since it was still kind of season, the restaurant was fully booked. It is an island that many people want to visit, so have in mind that if you want to visit a particular place either set your timing to super early start as many stores work until sold out or restaurants are fully booked.
Along the way which now had end point Nest Point Lighthouse. One of the stops was Dunvegan Castle, an open store in town, we saw every place just from the outside because of the above mentioned points, but we slowly and happily continued towards the lighthouse. The road was tiny, the views amazing, we were alone on it apart from a few sheep friends.
And then we reached Neist Point. One thing was sure, we were not prepared for that beauty, and to date I am still in awe where we spent the night.

Words don’t do justice for the beauty of this place and the surroundings, some people were taking their tents and spending the night completely outdoor, but just having the opportunity to wake up here was one of the greatest privileges I’ve experienced.
Once we woke up, the first stop was the Glendale community hall, it would have been nice if the Lephin Cafe was opened, but instead we continued to Caora Dhubh coffee shop. It had amazing views, to my dissatisfaction, only sweets inside so I had to use the house kitchen again. Then we had a look at the Talisker Distillery right across, but ended the visit of The Oyster Shed. A shed with should i mention again amazing view, amazing offer of local product, grilled lobster, and many other fishy things, I would have say perfect ending, but we stopped on a few more spots. First at the lodge on the Loch, for some beachy vibes, then again to Distillery 57 for souvenirs and finished Skye’s visit at Lean To Coffee, specialty coffee spot with great baked stuff, and even cuter interior/exterior.

Then for about three and something hours it was the road les traveled through hills and high lands in order to reach Inverness, the capital of the highlands, we didn’t spend, a lot of time here, but just enough to go through every street hill, and back, drove to the Loch Ness visitor centre, but since you know it is closing at 5PM we did an even quicker stop at the lake. Honestly this was maybe the least impressive part for me, as all the other unknown spots were far greater, but i guess that nice story always sells good. Sorry, just a personal opinion.
But nevertheless those were one of the most beautiful days of my life.

We had to return the camper at 11AM the next day, so we wanted to drive as much as possible and to have less for the morning. Again the road less traveled or the road exiting the highlands and passing towards the Speyside, but just for a sleepover and not for whiskey tasting. Our aim was sleeping at Rothiemurchus Camp, but since it was closed the next open one was Dalraddy Holiday Park and I could not recommend it enough. Super close to Aviemore town, and this is my next bucket list region for Scotland. More than ever can’t wait.
In the morning we stopped at Pitlochry, and everything was closed before 9AM except The Bakery.
The road lead us just in time in Glasgow and we finished our time in Scotland at the Meat Joint Scottish Steakhouse.

So how was Scotland? This hard to impress person was more than impressed and felt all the feelings at once being here.

Leave a comment