ITINERARY: Long summer in Malta without a car

Counting countries was my cardio this year. The bucket is almost full and only four countries are left to circle Europe as “done”. However there are many regions left to be visited, but I am happy that I am getting closer to my goal. I prefer travelling as a duo in places I haven’t been before, but Malta seemed very doable in a bit extended group and it was super fun to share experiences with some of the best friends. The plan in my head was taking the bus everywhere, that is why we booked the expensive (for my standards) accommodation in Valleta, and we ended up “bolting” everywhere, which per person turned out to be cca 10euros more for the 3 days. For the rest of the days we took the travel card for 12 bus rides that at the moment costs 15euros.

DAY 1: VALLETTA – MDINA – SLIEMA

We arrived around 21:30 after 90 minutes flight from Skopje and took our first Bolt to Valleta, we immediately got out, and being afraid that everything will close we sat for drinks at 67 Kapitali (little did I know that this will be our everyday stop the next 3 days). The first official day of vacation started at Lot 61 roastery, and every next day started there. The coffee shop has super nice location, close to the market square and every day we would spend the day there for espressos, coldbrews and flapjacks. To say we had a plan would be a lie, so we just started strolling, having 35 degrees at the end of September, didn’t help, and neither did the fact that the city had its ups and downs moments. We visited the most important streets, Old Mint Streetm Bakers Street, Strait Street and Old Theather Street, we went for the Lower Baracca Gardens, the Parliament and all the famous Cathedrals, but mostly we were looking for refreshments.


While fighting the warmth, we came to the idea, why dont we go today in Mdina and Rabat?! Well from idea to realization it took 10 minutes and one Bolt ride, little did we know that there was some EU visit, and we couldn’t visit every part of the silent town, we got a glimpse of what is about, but we couldnt reach the main square and the cathedral, so always check before going. Then we cross the street and strolled through Rabat, I still dont get it how these two are different “villages” but okay.
The night ended in Sliema, the hotels plus going out place on the island. We ended up in brewhouse, that is what happens when boys are travelling along, and one last bolt took us back to Valleta.


This distance is definitively doable by bus, either by the 12 single journeys card, or by paying 2euros direlty to the driver, there is a ferry as well, charging about the same as bus, but we went for the most comfortable option.

DAY 2: GOZO – VALLETTA

First things first Lot 61, then went on the fast ferry terminal to Gozo. This one doesn’t stop to the Blue Lagoon, it goes straight to Gozo, and online return ticket costs 9.5euro, and the same tickets is 15 euros if you buy it on the spot. Getting to the terminal we passed by the beautiful Victoria gate, and some tiny passages with maltese balconies. Once we’ve arrived in Gozo after about 30minutes, we went to the capital Victoria for brunch, then strolled around town up to the citadel, and some souvenir shops and then continued to the you guess what, brewery, this time craft one, the one that is being served at Kapitali 67 called Lord Chambray Brewery, and then we ended up at the most famous beach in Gozo, Ramla bay, which has goldenish sands, two kiosks, and umbrellas for 5 euros per day.


A taxi driver said we can still get to Blue Lagoon but it was already too late, the trips stop going at around 5pm, and instead going to Valleta we stayed for dinner in a traditional sea food restaurant called Ta Tonja, going back to Valleta we were in awe of the nightlife, the streets loooked like one big open air with many stages, and it gave the feeling of wooow i want this to last, but as we saw this was the case only on Fridays and Saturdays, The cool bars on the stairs were closed on a Sunday. I am not a party person, but I recommend for the ones that are.

DAY 3: MARSAXLOKK – ST PETERS’ POOL – THREE CITIES

It’s Bolt time, of course right after Lot 61 time. And this time the road leads us to Marsaxlokk, fishing village in the south of the country, on sunday there is the famous fish market, and a long promenade with fish restaurants, there is a little square with three coffee spots and that’s basically it. Marsaxlokk is famous for the typical blue red and yellow fishing boats, with protective eyes and for the boat trips that the vendors are offering to St Peter’s Pool. They were 10 euros return trip, but unfortunately they were not on our agenda this time.

The road leads us to the three cities, out of which we saw two, Birgu and Senglea. Almost all the tourist guides and blogs are saying that they are a must, but I would say they are just nice, and they are offering amazing view on Valleta.
So if you are a beach person I would suggest skipping them and exchanging them for a beach day.
The nice thing is that they are very easily reachable by speed boat from Valletta, for the price of a bus ride.

We ended the night in a bar on the “stairy” streets of Valetta along a farewell to our friends, and then the one hour bus journey to Buggiba started.

DAY 4: ST PAULS BAY – BUGGIBA – QAWRA

It was very childish of us not to have an accommodation booked, so we were thinking whether Mellieha or Buggiba, but the price was in favour of Buggiba and we ended up there. The town is your typical touristic place with beach bars, food chains, pubs and the most typical summer tourist atmosphere, there are local people leaving though, it has nice sea side bay, but because it is like a peninsula, every bus circles around it and your bus journey gets extended for no reason, Our accommodation was a modest apartment super close to the Aquarium. One of the days here we went to the Qawra point beach, and the next day to Nine Lives beach bar. They consider the high season till around 10th of October, after that the prices of the sun beds goes down. Buggiba is well connected to the rest of the beaches and the main attractions as well. Apart from the airport and Valletta, you need around 30-40minutes by bus to any destination.

DAY 5: BLUE LAGOON

Having extra days and a beach person in our duo, we decided on one full day to blue lagoon. There are many options, by speed ferries, the Hop Off and On boats or Boat from the Cirkewa Terminal, we went for the latest one and then took 15euro return boat. What people usually do is go on a day trip to both Blue Lagoon and Gozo, but we decided for separate trips. The price of the sun beds moves around the clock, so early in the morning they start with 15euros, then it goes lower and reaches 10 in the afternoon. The water was great, but even greater was the fact that it was early October and the crowds were low. Personal opinon is that this beach is not overrated, but going in the water with a pineapple cocktail is for me. Sorry all.

DAY 6: ST JULIAN – GOLDEN BAY – MELLIEHA

When do the young people go to St Julian, in the nigh, when are we going? During the day of course. When people are saying everything is so close in Malta they are considering different neighbourhods to be different cities, the Paceville in St Julian is one of the most famous places for going out, and if you check google maps it is ultra busy area at nights. During the day it looked like one big construction site with cute old houses here and there. There was the Portomaso condo complex which looked really nice to be honest, and then walking along the sea you get from Spinola bay to Balluta Bay, which had one ofthe nicest, if not the nicest square for me in Malta. It reminded a bit of the chill Portuguese squares. There we had a coffee in the lined up italian style cafeterias, all of them being full and looking decent, then we took the so called main street which you can feel free to skip, because you have seen everything in Valleta but without the cars part. Refreshment break happened in one Maltese restaurant and then we were off to golden bay.


The bus ride was around 30 minutes, arriving there there is Munchies kiosk, and guys renting beds and umbrellas, 5 euros each. Next to the Golden bay is Riviera beach so if you get bored, you can tick off to beaches, and even more in the area if we count Gnejna. These beaches are in the Poppye village area, we didn’t go there but I think it might come handy if you are not having a car, knowing that there is direct bus connection. The sanset was worth it and then the bus ride to Melleiha maybe not needed, but we wanted to see something else for a change. Melleiha had somehow nicer hotels than St Paul/Buggiba, more high end restaurant and more local restaurants, but being super hungry and in a beach attire we went for a street food cafe with Valletta stairs vibe and then signed off for the day.
I liked Valleta and Mdina the most, so from the rest that I saw in this part of the country, maybe Melleiha gets place number 3.

DAY 7: BEACH BARS BUGGIBA

The last day was fro beach chill and long over an hour bus ride to the airport. The bars were empty the sea pleasnt to watch, but not so inviting to go in and the places to eat in Buggiba /Qawra were kind of desperate. Maybe we didn’t pick the right ones, but we were trying, but honestly most of the places had the same menu all you can think of. Also many places were closed because the season was over, so lets say we were not. in the food heaven, but in the warm weather and very affordable prices.



How I liked it ? I did like it, but as many people said, to go once. On the other hand I would not complain having that temperature in October, or having a long weekend with friends there for a change and maybe skipping the Halkidiki peninsula in Greece.

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