Vietnam was for the longest my dream destination. I do not remember having such high expectations of a country in ages. From all the sides I was hearing how amazing it is, the different scenery, the difference between the north and the south, the food scene and the low low prices. We know that expectations are the killer of the fun, still some of my favorite views on this three months journey were in Vietnam, but there were some rough patches too. What I learned is that season is more than key player here, and as always change of plans is highly appreciated. Initially we planned on spending at least 3 weeks here, but the urge for warmth made us cut it a bit shorter.
Nevertheless I am really looking forward to go back and experience the Ha Giang loop and more from the North.
We did the whole trip just taking the road and here is how it went.

DAY 1 – ARRIVING IN SAPA

After 8 hours from Luang Prabang we made it to the Vietnamese border. Then another 2 hours to Dinh Binh. After almost missing the bus, we realize that the agency, actually booked us on a sleeper bus. The bus was supposed to arrive at 01AM in Sapa, but it actually arrived at almost 03AM.
Being full of people, especially young mothers and their babies, this was a lot of coughing and crying. The 4 degrees in Sapa didn’t really help, and this meant we started Vietnam sick.
In Sapa it was constant rain and fog. Fog is actually the city’s nickname. That is why season here means a lot, and after hot stone reset massage we’ve decided to skip our northern itinerary, and Ha Giang loop, and continue towards Hanoi.
From Sapa to Hanoi there are many bus options, they take around 6 hours, and bring you to the Old Quarter in Hanoi. We’ve booked last minute with 12goasia, but you can book directly with the agency too.

In Sapa we’ve stayed at Sapa Fansipan View House, the hosts were nice, if there was no fog the view would probably be amazing, but just have in mind that the rooms are a bit outdated compared to what is shown on their google reviews.

DAY 2 – 3 HANOI

Arrived at Hanoi around midday, the Old Quarter was bustling with crowds, and it was our first encounter with the Vietnamese traffic jam. Basically both sides, the riders and the pedestrians, behave as if the other party doesn’t exist. Our accommodation here was private super central apartment in one of the streets next to Beer Street. We got the center without the noise. One thing to know when booking apartments in Vietnam is that you “need to solve a puzzle before entering” them. The entrance of our flat was via hair salon. And when the salon would close, then you need to do some work of dealing with the protective fence of the building, interesting experience. Once you enter the lift, it takes you directly to your room. Like in movies.
Through Hanoi we gave our best to see as much as possible on foot, and that was one of the biggest mistakes. Technically it is very possible, but it is super unpleasent, because of all the motorbike crowds and all the smell of the gas.
In our few days in Hanoi we thoroughly explored the main sights in Old Quarter, the Notre Damme, Ho Hoan Lake, and the Shrine on it, went on both sides of the Train Street, and the experience was better then expected. Next, we’ve visited all the UNESCO protected monuments, the Imperial Citadel of Thang Long, the Presidential Palace, the main offices of the communist party, and the Mausoleum of Ho Chi Minh. One tip for visiting, try to enter from the side of the presidential palace, because there are no crowds at all.
Food wise our highlight in Hanoi was the bun cha at Hương Liên.

DAY 4 – 5 HA LONG BAY CRUISE

In front of our accommodation there was an agency GP Travel, with whom we booked our Ha Long Bay cruise. Actually they advised us on booking the less crowded Bai Tu Long Bay. Basically you get the same views with less tourist boats.
Ha Long Bay is UNESCO protected sight, and it consists of thousands of limestone mountains in the sea. The views are breathtaking. This was one of the most beautiful sights I’ve seen in my life. The cruise operator was called CYCAD cruises. The rooms were very comfortable, especially the bathroom had amazing bath tub, the food was over engineered, but overall this was great experience. I’ve never heard someone that was 100% satisfied from a cruising company, so go with what feels right for you at the moment. The problem with one night cruises is that all the activities are squeezed in a short time, so there is no really time for relaxation. You can choose which one you would like to skip. From this perspective now, it would have been fine if I just stay on the balcony and enjoy the view.
When you book with an agency they take you in front of the hotel, bring you to the pier in Ha Long Bay, and take you back at your place of choice.

DAY 6 – NINH BINH

From Hanoi we continue towards Ninh Binh, known as the Ha Long Bay on land. Our end point is Tam Coc, another UNESCO protected site. We book a van spontaneously, and the longest part of the trip is actually getting out of Hanoi. In Tam Coc our accommodation is directly at the lake at a lovely lady’s place Friendly Stay. The place was amazing, completely new with very nice garden and breakfast included. We got all the tips about the sites we should visit, rented bicycles here and even scheduled our next overnight bus to Hue with her. The price that she had was better than the price online.
In Tam Coc you could easily stay even longer because of the calm atmosphere and the abundance of nature. While here, we visited the canal with lotus flowers, and Hang Mua cave and viewpoint. People actually go here for the photo opportunities, but I would skip that part and just focus on the nature around.

DAY 7 HUE

Hue was not on our initial itinerary, but once we learned that so much unique food comes from this part, we’ve decided to visit it. Hue is also home to the last emperor’s seat and it has the forbidden city and many tombs of rulers as a historical sites. I think the peak of our sicknes was here, so we’ve stayed more indoors rather than out. The crew in the hotel was amazing. Apart from the imperial city, thereis the city market as a tourist attraction, but what was the most interesting for me was the locals nightlife. Here you could clearly say which street is for tourists and which it is for locals. In Hue we’ve tried the local soup – Bun Bo Hue and the lemongrass pork skewers – Nem Lui.
The next day we were on the route to Da Nang, with the only available not sold out train. This ride is classified as one of the most scenic rides in the world, sadly I could not agree with this. It was interesting because it has fully cultural program, but the views to the nature were very limited. However, there was a music show and feet spa service. Traveling by bus would have been faster and cheaper, as this journey took us almost 4 hours.

DAY 8 – 9 DA NANG

Arriving in Da Nang was chaotic as the train station is a bit further than the sea, where most of the accommodations are. Taxi ride was pricer than any other in Vietnam, but it also gave this full feeling of driving through big city. We saw the Dragon bridge and had a walk along the sea. More than enough for night one. The next day we just went to the beach in the morning, it was quite beautiful, with natural palm shadows but not so much happenings. The sea was not suitable for going in. In Da Nang the spots around Dana Beach were definitively the most crowded.
Our day continued on the other side of the bridge as well to see the pink church, and to finally eat some comforting pizza at 4P’s, and I was shocked how good it was.
Da Nang is a favorite place to many expats, it was not bad at all, but I’ve definitively been to better beach cities.
People come to Da Nang also for the Ba Na hills and the Golden Bridge, but it was overpriced and far activity so we’ve skipped it.
Ther is one very exciting hotel in Da Nang, so maybe try to book it for your stay there.

DAY 10 – 11 HOI AN

Hoi An is basically like a suburb of Da Nang. Getting there is 30 minutes taxi ride. Buses exists too, and one way taxi is around 10 euros. We stayed central at Eco Hotel. Hoi An has its reputation as walking city, but motorbikes are no exception here, even where you do not expect them. Getting lost in the maze of streets is actually very pleasnt. I think i snapped most of my photos in Vietnam here. The yellow colonial houses are such an eye pleasing sight. After having Banh Mi in the Anthony Bourdain recommended spot that still goes strong, but without crowds, we circled around the sight seeing spots, having the gate of the Ba Mu Temple and the Chua Cau wooden bridge as most beautiful sights. Before it got dark and it was time for lantern watching at the river, we had one more Banh Mi at another popular spot a bit further from the city center. In the evening we crossed the bridge and went to La Hoi Island, there was the night market and wide choice of restaurants.
The next day was a beach day, because we knew we would have long ride to Ho Chi Minh. The beach was full, however not so many people were in water because of the waves. We skipped the coconut crazy ride, but had a long walk to the city center. On the way we stopped at a super nice concept store and cafe – Good Pages.
In Hoi An there are many interesting hotels, but a bit further from the city center, which I would really like to explore if I would have more days.

DAY 13 – 15 HO CHI MIN CITY

Long discussion if we should fly to Ho Chi Minh City was happening, but we didn’t. From this perspective I even think it would have been smarter. First we thought that taking 1 hour trip to the airport and the waiting time, then arriving in Saigon and taking car again would be a hassle, little did we know, that the bus we took literally stopped on every stone to collect or deliver a parcel, and for the last 20 kilometres leg of the journey it took more than 2 hours. We were also thinking if we should extend the trip and have more beach days at Nha Trang or Mui Ne, but then we decided on covering only the basics and heading straight to Saigon. This was the hardest ride for me. Our accomodation was right across September 23rd Park and just 3 minutes walking from the Walking Street. Overall it was okay, but still a bit noisy. Our route started at Con Dao Park, and just passing through parks gave a bit better and calmer feeling for this city. On the way we’ve discovered vietmilk’s kombucha, and tried all of them, the black tea one is great. Passed by the War Museum, entered the Imperial Palace, which really reminded of the monuments of Yugoslavia times. Then the tourist classics: Opera House, Notre Damme, Post Office, untll we reached the coffee apartment building. We zigzaged along the streets on the way back to our flat and got the glimpse of the nightlife in Saigon.
The next day we went for a coffee in a cool spot called AnhK, visited the book street, and since i was curious about how is the public transport we took the train towards Vinhomes park and Saigon Pearl Park. Finished the day with a dinner at Michelin recommended vegan restaurant and the went to prepare for the next part of the journey.

When you are in Ho Chi Minh city the most offered activities are the Mekong River boat ride, and the Chi Chi tunnels. We skipped the first one intentionally since we did 2 day Mekong River boat ride in Laos, and the Chi Chi tunnels we thought that we do not want to be stuck in traffic. The first excursion requires full day, and the second one is half day trip.
Next destination was Cambodia, and from Vietnam there is an option to reach Phnom Penh by bus in around 6 hours. This time we opted for flight to Siem Reap in order not to lose almost a day of traveling. If you decide on a bus it is a good option as well because the process is seamless and straight forward.
If the sickness didn’t appear I think we would have done Vietnam in another pace. Fortunately this destination offers a lot and going back here will eventually happen sooner or later.